As I write this, the Olympics are about to begin. It’s about the only time the television is on around here in the summer, as both my husband and I love the Olympics despite the politics, accusations and drama surrounding it.
In another part of the world however, drama ensues in an ancient festival, not quite as old as the Olympics, but with the similar origins. The Palio Siena takes place July 2 and August 16 in Siena, Italy. Originally, this horse race was part of Olympic style games held in the city’s historic central piazza. It didn’t actually start out as a horse race. The first mounts were oxen and donkeys. It was however a celebration for the entire city, and in the last few decades has become an exciting tourist attraction. These races have been run in some form since 1644, and were paused only twice for the two World Wars.
While racehorse owners elsewhere take heart in a horse placing well in a race, in the Palio di Siena there is only one winner. Even the horse that comes in second is considered to have lost. Winning the race is a prestigious feat and there is fierce rivalry amongst the contestants. Interfering with another horse is regarded as cheating on most racetracks, but during a running of the Palio, it is an an expected tactic. Hazing and hitting another horse with the bull skin whip riders carry is all part of the tradition. Horses are ridden without saddles, and it’s not unusual for the horses to cross the finish line without its rider. In fact, horses can win the Palio on their own, as it’s the horse, not the jockey that is important in this race.
And, elsewhere racehorse owners may boast of their horse’s fine ancestry, but Palio competitors may not ride purebred horses. There is no prize beyond the prestige of winning the race which brings great honor to the neighborhood the winner is from.
This centuries old tradition also has a religious aspect. The Palio is run to celebrate an apparition of the Virgin Mary and her protection of the city militia in a famous battle. Formerly, all seventeen neighborhoods of the city were entered in the race. These neighbourhoods are headed by priors, and those within the neighbourhood support their contestants. Today, the race is limited to ten horses for safety. But the races are still preceded by parades, religious services and pageantry. And, the rivalry between neighbourhoods is fierce, with spectators often getting unruly and sometimes dangerous.
There is of course danger for the competitors. Both horses and riders have been injured or killed during the 90 second race three times around the Piazza del Campo. Animal rights activists have called for an end to the races for this reason.
As a tourist, it’s recommended that you attend the practice before the race and this is a less hectic way to experience a taste of the spectacle. Attending the race can be costly, but trials are free. Trials aren’t qualifiers, but a chance to try out the racing surface-the city street covered in dirt, and the route. But if you want to watch the real race at 7:30 in the evening, make sure you elbow your way into the piazza before noon for an upfront view of the action.
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